Watertable exudes the comfort of dining in a home, and, along with its well-thought-out cuisine, makes for a stellar restaurant experience.
At first we couldn’t articulate what it was that made us feel so at ease inside Watertable. Yet, the further we discussed this with Chef Manfred Lassahn, the greater our understanding became of just how well-thought-out his concept was. We spent time with both Chef Lassahn and Adrian Lagoy, his chef de cuisine, dining on the current menu and learning about the value of guest experiences.
We began dinner with their humble epi baguette: classic French bread in the shape of a wheat stalk. Fresh out of the oven every 20 minutes during service, it is a signature taste; its freshness and memorable design often receiving compliments by diners. To share an epi is a proverbial breaking of the bread—a gesture done among friends and family.
Lassahn’s role as Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach’s executive chef for the resort means not only tending to Watertable, but to the additional food offerings on-site: Pete’s Sunset Grille, Tower 15, room service and catering. As a result, he relies on Lagoy to take the lead on creating the seasonal menu. Focusing on vegetable-forward and grill-centric dishes, Chef Adrian may receive inspiration from the kitchen team and their diverse palates. His planning includes one specific guideline: No menu items may cross over into other menus. This includes the selections between lunch, dinner and bar, plus between Pete’s and Tower. Watertable alone maintains nine different menus, providing guests unprecedented diversity in their options.
Kurobuta pork belly goes through multiple cooking processes to achieve slow roasted, sharable perfection. Its deceptively modest look ultimately results in a balanced bite. Include a forkful of pickled pearl onion, peppery nasturtium leaf, calvados (apple brandy) reduction and purple potato puree for a truly unique taste. On the garden side, chile citrus vinaigrette dresses apples, greens and feta. A nut brittle garnish texturizes our dish for an amusing mouthfeel.
Progressing to the main entrees of their menu, thoughtful presentation was most impactful. Chef plated his proteins in a way that was pleasing to both the eyes and palate. Pistachio dill pesto and pancetta morsels enhanced our grilled branzino over sunchoke puree with herbaceous, rich flavor. Marinated baby eggplant complemented a savory Colorado lamb loin accompanied by bulgur wheat salad.
Settling into our chair, our gaze roams around the dining space. We learn Watertable is meant to evoke the comfort of stepping into a home. The entry resembles a library, with its warm, earthy tones. A tucked away spot featuring a fireplace acts as a living room. The open-style kitchen has been utilized for culinary demonstrations. We are bathed in natural light while situated in the loggia. Chef Lassahn later elaborates on his involvement in the overall look of Watertable; dishware, floral arrangements, and even design elements all contribute to a diner’s overall experience.
Dessert menus reach our table, and the choices vary enough that we simply cannot narrow it down to one. Champagne verrine is presented as an edible terrarium, enclosed with a chocolate-dipped crisp comprised of macadamias. A beet tuile’s distinct hue pops in the presence of Greek yogurt gelato, candied walnuts and a specialty beet cake. And our lemon mousse is so composed with its blackberry sauce flourish, it resembles a miniature wedding cake.
By promoting a root-to-stem mentality when prepping ingredients, Watertable’s team excels at their goal for zero waste. Also implemented is a compost program; both are concepts many establishments strive for, but are not able to accomplish. Chef Manfred Lassahn implements these and other values while keeping Watertable under his watchful eye. It is this attention to detail that’s made this dining room a star in Hyatt’s culinary inventory for the last five years.